Day 33 – I forgot to tell you that yesterday I went over 300 miles hiked! When I woke up this morning at the Jerry Cabin Shelter I realized my sleeping bag was wet about a third of the way up from the bottom. That’s not too good when it’s cold outside and you are relying on your down bag to warm you up. It had stopped raining for a moment and I decided that was my chance to get this soggy tent put away. It was in the 30’s and my hands were wet and cold from rolling up the tent parts and stuffing them, not to mention how nasty my hands were. My blue bandana has been the best used tool in my pack! I use it for just about everything.

As I began my hike, it started snowing and sleeting off and on all morning. The terrain was great and I made it to the Flint Mountain Shelter 7 miles away by lunchtime. I removed my pack, dug out my peanut butter, and a family of 6 showed up out for a day hike. They offered me a banana and apples to go with my peanut butter and I took them up on it…true trail magic! Caboose showed up and ate lunch as well and when I left it began sleeting. As long as you are moving it’s all good but once you stop.. it’s shiver time! The mountains were beautiful as I literally walked around several of them singing “She’ll be Coming around the Mountain”.

The entire forest floor was covered in green of some sorts mixed in with the brown of the tree trunks. It was beautiful! By the time I got to one of the roads that we cross, I had decided to stay at the Laurel Hostel to get my bag dried as the sun just wasn’t strong enough to burst through the overcast, although it tried a few times. The rain started to fall again and it got colder. The hostel is really like a shed in some dude’s backyard with 6 bunks, a strong smell of pot, and no heat (outhouse in the back). I took a long, hot shower just to warm up. A lady in her 50’s who had been here (it was her pot) about a week working for her stay gave Timmy some money to get wood for the pot bellied stove in “the shed”. It has warmed this room up quite nicely and dried out my clothes and hopefully my boots by morning. He had frozen food here so I ate a pizza, Gatorade, and a corn dog. I also finished my graham crackers and peanut butter.

I don’t mind the “being wet from rain” part but if it’s thrown in there with temperatures in the 30’s, it’s not too much fun. Those are my days when I think “what am I doing”? But the next few days are in the 60’s and 70’s so it’s okay again. I didn’t feel too bad stopping here since I did good mileage and there was no phone service here in the holler to get another place. Caboose came here too as well as Sweet Tooth and another guy I had not met. Since we got the fire going it’s been worth it. I plan on staying at the first shelter tomorrow that’s only about 7 miles or so away so I can lay my tent out in the sun and get it dried out before bedtime. Otherwise it may be later in the day since there’s a pretty big hill that will slow me a bit enroute to the second shelter about 15.5 miles away. I would have liked to be further ahead today but when the bag is wet… speaking of that it’s nice and toasty now and I say to you, Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 32- This morning I awaken to the pitter patter of rain drops. I waited to see if it would let up but it did not. I fetched my bear bag, visited the privy, and took my tent down since I had planned on a long day. My tent can be set up with the rain fly only and then go under it, lay the tarp and set up the tent without the tent getting drenched, so I reversed it taking it down and it worked quite nice. But when you roll it all up and put it in the bag, it’s all pretty much wet anyway, just not soaked.

I lit out with Caboose not far behind. He is the nicest guy and I catch him checking on me once in a while. I made really good time before lunch, stopping at the first shelter drenched to the skin from top to bottom and getting chilly. So much for rain gear! I made a hot lunch, met some nice people and talked with Sir Mead. He, too, is a very nice, helpful person. Caboose and Sherlock asked if I was coming to the next shelter and I said yes since I made such good time and my clothes won’t be any drier tomorrow while walking in more rain. Huge bursts of thunder that rumbled on and on got my attention but no lightening. The forest hasn’t changed much except for the small shrubs and trees are getting their yellow green leaves now and the coolest white multiple flower shrub/tree grows it’s leaves but they become these flowers. I have never seen those.

Since it was rainy I thought there wouldn’t be much to report on, man was I wrong! The rain began to let up but instead of hiking the Appalachian Trail it seemed I was hiking the Appalachian River! With all the rain that fell the trail was covered in water and in most places running with water. That’s how my socks got wet. Fresh Prints, another caring young man, did wait to see if I could get across the raging water surging down the hill. I came to a sign that said if bad weather take the Blue Blaze Trail since the AT runs along the ridge. The wind wasn’t gusty and the rain had stopped so I followed the AT.

Well Good Grief, I had no idea it was going to take me rock climbing and descending! I had to use my hands to pull myself up some of them and got my pack stuck twice on a rock trying to come down; one wrong twist and I would have wound up on my face several feet down. But I managed and when I got to the top, the sun poked through, the clouds lifted just for a moment and oh my what an awestruck view! It almost made it all worth it.

The overcast quickly came back and it started raining as soon as I finished setting up my tent, ate, and got everything inside the tent. Perfect timing or else someone was watching over me. It’s quite cold, about 35 degrees, so I am nestled in my bag that didn’t get wet but either feels damp on the outside or it is just cold. My pillow got a little wet even in my covered backpack but just on one side so I can still use it. It is very late for hiker time so Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

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Day 31- My stay at Elmer’s was great. There were only 5 of us there and we knew each other so that was nice. Patience was the other girl there and Elmer had us tell what we did prior to the AT. Patience said massage therapist and I blurted out” where were you last night, my feet were killing me”! They just laughed. It may have been an old house with eclectic furnishings with more books than you could possibly read, the floors were slanted, the staircases were grand, the bed was so high I had to slide down off it on my stomach, but what good sleep! It was level too! Elmer made us omelets with toast and fresh fruit and granola. The apple butter was so tasty, Pop would have loved it. None of us really wanted to leave but since I knew I had a big day ahead of me I made the first move to leave. The others followed in due time.

The trail took me most of the morning along the French Broad River with the most soothing sounds. There were miniature purple lilies the entire trail. I ran into Bumblebee laying on the ground off the trail, I believe she got the Norovirus from the girl she stayed with. I hope she feels better soon. I ran into some trail magic from a daughter and her father. She has hiked the AT and will be doing the Pacific Trail next year. That was my second rest period I took with my pack off, the first being lunch by a random pond in the woods made by a really tall, old rock dam with Lukenbach. It was quite peaceful. I knew there would be several big climbs today so I have learned to take those in stride, one step at a time. It doesn’t make it easier, I just don’t get so anxious….Except today.

Towards what I thought should be the final hill to the shelter, I apparently was wrong, I knew there was at least one guy that should’ve passed me, he never showed. Then I got to wondering, what if I missed the shelter, good grief! When my shadow gets long and my stomach starts to growl I know I should soon be at my destination. These mountain miles are driving me crazy!

The guy eventually caught up to me which made me sigh with relief, we had about another mile. It started out so hot and sunny until the afternoon with the wind starting to whip up and become gusty. It will do that when we expect rain, which we do, showers I hope. It’s pretty crowded here but plenty of level ground for our tents, many familiar faces and the privy is very full and disgusting. The wind is growing stronger and I hope my stakes hold tight. It’s getting late so I bid you a Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

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Day 30 – Last night as I glanced out of the shelter, all nestled between those who were once strangers, I realized the light glowing around the table was not that of Zorro’s headlamp but that of the brilliant moon. He said it was barely a quarter in size. I can only imagine what my first full moon out in the woods will be like. This morning was a short hike into town, Hot Springs, NC. The trail literally follows the sidewalk up through the entire small, quaint town. The first few hostels were closed due to several people getting the norovirus. It spreads easily and makes you sick as a dog. Wash your hands, people! Hand sanitizer does not work against this bug. I stayed clear of those that I knew had it and were getting over it. The first couple of hostels were actually closed to sanitize their facilities with Clorox.

I found a wonderful, old B&B that had one room left in Elmer’s Sunnybank Inn. This older gentleman had hiked the trail many years ago and has this 1875 home that he rents rooms in for next to nothing. If you like old houses filled with vintage pieces then this is the place to stay. The porches on both stories is perfect for winding down and airing out your stuff. Across the street is the Smoky Mountain Diner that cannot be beat in quality, flavor and the price of their food. The wait staff and cooks are awesome and so helpful. I have to admit I ate there 3 times today!

Finally a post office! I sent home some extra, un-needed weight and replaced two pieces at the Outfitter’s store with lighter weight items. I just can’t seem to get the pack weight down to what I’d like and I really don’t have that many things. But it is a work in progress and somewhere along the way I will figure it out. I also rearranged the items in the pack to the distribute the weight better, I hope. We will see tomorrow. This morning as I sat down to eat breakfast, Saucy came in and quickly left. After getting cell service she just found out her Grandmother had passed away. I went out to console her as I know what she was feeling and maybe she might need a “mama’s” shoulder for a moment. Elmer let her stay at the house and shower while she waited for her mom to come from Kentucky to pick her up. I pray they have a safe trip and that God will remind them of all the good memories they will always have. She plans to return to the trail and I hope we meet again.

After breakfast in the morning that Elmer will be preparing, I will light out for the next shelter which is about 10 miles away. It sure does feel refreshing to wash your clothes and get a shower! I was able to hang my clothes on the line to dry too which always make you feel fresher! Saucy and I went to visit Silver Lining and Willow at a lodge they had to themselves which also was a large old house. This town is tiny but packs a wallop in its small space! Well. I have recharged phone, power pack, and camera batteries and about to lay down to recharge myself if I can manage to climb into this bed that sits so high off the floor, so Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 28- Last night and this morning I actually had to drag out my down puffy jacket and put it on. It got quite cold and rained off and on all night. You could see blue skies down in the valley so I put on my rain coat for any wind that may be around knowing I would warm up quickly once I started going straight up the mountain from Deep Gap. Little did I know that the wind all the way to Max Patch, a spectacular bald, would be blowing about 30-40 knots. The wind chill factor was probably in the 20’s. My face and hands were the coldest and since I was using one glove to pad my strap, I had to keep swapping the leftover glove from one hand to the next. As I arrived at the highest peak I thought I had entered another enchanted forest. What appeared to be hundreds of trees bursting forth in beautiful sparkly white flowers was really tree limbs covered in 1/8” ice. Although a pretty sight, it reminded me of how stinking cold it was.

The sun was beginning to do its magic on the ice later on, so at that point I got pelted by icicles from the trees. I eventually got on the leeward side and lower, avoiding the chilling wind, then I arrived at Max Patch. When I was on the top of this bald I was nearly blown over many times. Yes, it is a spectacular 360 degree view, but when you are trying to get off the bald it is hard to enjoy it. (Sorry Leslie and Frank). The AT goes right through Hot Springs and on to Max Patch going south, so on a nice, sunny warm day I will drive up and enjoy it then. Did I get a picture from the top, you ask? Well, that is a no. My phone would probably be in another county by now. I did get one lower down and out of the worst wind.

I had planned on going 13.1 miles to the second shelter but the cold and wind made my mind up to hunker down at the first shelter. That is okay by me because I would have been miserable on the climb up. Tomorrow is supposed to be warm so I will see just how far I can go, as where I would like to be is 14.2 miles away. There are familiar faces here at the shelter, Pizza Steve and Turtuno, and some new. Although the tent might be warmer, I wanted to get up and out in the morning but I went for the tent option and am glad I did.

The new foliage I saw were hundreds of wild azaleas. I can only imagine how gorgeous they will be when in bloom. All the tiny flowers were folded up protecting themselves from the cold. There were more birds singing today than I have heard in the past. There are many grouse that make at thumping noise that freaks people out. I am going to slip into my bag before the sun sets to save any heat I do have, so Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 27- There were only 6 of us in the shelter last night, no bears and only one snake this morning who came up to visit. Fortunately for me I was digging a cat hole! I dreaded that but I came out on the good end it seems! I am officially out of the Smokies! My pack was feeling good most of the day it seems, so I may have found the right adjustments. I still could and will shave a few pounds from it too. Saucy stayed over at the Standing Bear Hostel. It seems that’s where everyone likes to take a short hike to and relax. I had other plans. The trail runs under I-40 and even by the sign I saw, the states are still mingled with each other, Knoxville this way and Asheville that way.

After getting back on the trail I saw so many different flora and fauna. One embankment was covered in poison ivy, Monty. Another reason to wear long pants. The further I got away from the noise of the vehicles the better it was. I came upon tons of honeysuckle both uphill and downhill. When it blooms that will be one aromatic hike. I would probably hyperventilate by inhaling so much; I love the smell! I couldn’t believe how many wild flowers were blooming, red, purple, white, and yellow ones, so many different kinds. I was also walking next to a strong flowing stream, running over rocks and making the best sound. It was so pretty with its waterfalls here and there.

I had light to moderate rain most of the day and the higher I got the wind began to gust rather strongly. The last mountain to climb before the shelter was Snowbird Mountain. When I got to the top the rain stopped, the sun tried to peek through the overcast, and the air grew warmer with the sun. I looked to my left and suddenly the Snowbird VOR appeared before me. You seen one, you seen ‘em all, but I wondered how in the world the technicians do maintenance on it. The trail seemed the only way to it. A VOR is a navigational aid that pilots use to navigate. I have sent many a pilot to that VOR over the years. The rest of my walk was downhill from there.

Tiger Lily was at the shelter and a small group of new, young faces, one from Philly and one from Ireland. One of the older guys was born in Waterbury, CT, just like Larry. He still has family there, and now he lives south of me near Greenwood. A thunderstorm rolled in, I am glad to be at the shelter and not still on the trail!

I will share one last thing that happened prior to the shelter…At one point I thought of one of the good, last memories I had with Larry in the hospital. I wanted to scream out loud, since it was only me and the woods, that I love him and miss him, but only a muffled cry came from my mouth. I regained composure quickly and began filling my water bottle at a water source 20 feet ahead and as I looked down, there at my foot was a perfectly heart shaped rock. Be still my heart.. Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

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Day 26-I got up early for a change, ate, and started out around 7:40 am. Early for me. When there’s a lot of people in the shelter it’s kinda hard to really pack up without making too much noise so I try to just wait until others are getting noisier. There’s always THAT guy who starts talking outside the shelter very early and loudly so you might as well get up too. I made good time in the morning up until lunch where I took a quick break to take off my pack, eat, and use the privy.

I saw my first robin there. I have heard many rat-a-tat-tats of the numerous woodpeckers. There are many dead trees to chose from too. I packed my pack a different way this morning to try and get the weight where it’s supposed to be and not pull so hard down on my shoulders. It felt so much better but as the day went on so did the pulling on my shoulders. ARGGG! I have another trick up my sleeve for tomorrow so we will wait and see. I had a little rain, very little, and it felt so good. You just wouldn’t believe how warm you get when going uphill no matter how cold it is outside.

The foliage and scenery has changed quite a bite since I descended to an altitude of 2572 from 5911. The balsam trees are gone now replaced by more oak trees and now pine trees. The rhododendrons are still here in mass just waiting to burst forth their blooms. Let me tell you about those bushes…they are very unforgiving! When you pass by one and it’s in your way, it doesn’t just give like a tree branch, it actually tries to push you back then grab you and try to roll you around. I can’t tell you how many branches I have literally fought with! I ate a pretty good dinner tonight to help me get up and at ‘em in the morning. It may be a short day to the next shelter since I go from 1137 foot elevation to a 4263 foot in a span of 6 miles and back down a little to the shelter 9 miles from here. The next one is another 9 miles and after today, I can tell you that won’t happen! My knees are feeling all the downhill that I did today.

This shelter we are in, there are only 6 of us (a nice number) is the only remaining one on the AT that is covered in wire to keep the bears out. We had to throw our food bags and a nice, new guy threw mine with his. He is a little older too and like me our knees are feeling the age! Saucy was here, her shin splints are still hurting. I was glad to see her here. It’s very dark right now so I am going to slip into my bag, it feels quite nice out actually, and go to sleep. So Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

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Day 25- Well EUREKA and hallelujah! I found my tent tarp folded up nice and trim and slid into one of my pockets that I haven’t used for that yet. Boy that made me a happy camper! I ate a good breakfast for energy and started out in the drizzly cool rain. I soon warmed up as the hills are never ending. I did manage to stay upright on two feet today which pleased me, but my pack was definitely not packed right as it kept digging into my shoulders and even singing could not get my mind off of it. I couldn’t wait to get to the first shelter, eat lunch, repack my pack and move on to the next shelter. That was not in the cards! Saucy was here too, she has developed a shin splint and decided to rest it and dry out her tent as it rained on her last night. The sun came out and we sat on a grassy knoll taking it all in and chatting. I decided this was a wise choice. I will try to do a big day tomorrow as most of it is downhill, although that in itself is challenging.

There’s a whole different group of people here tonight and they all seem very nice. I literally ate all day for two reasons, one to build up calories in my body and two to get rid of the food in my pack! I am sure I didn’t do much but every little bit helps. I will try redistributing the weight tomorrow and hope for a balanced pack so I can do the long miles.

Well, I promised to tell you about some of the people I have met. Awhile back I met Wood Pile. He is a middle aged mama’s boy married to a psychologist who told him he needed to do this journey. As a boy his dad got tired of mama smothering him so he took him camping. He loved it so the hike was okay with him. At camp they decided to build a fire and he said “I don’t know what wood to look for so here..” (he put his arms outright to hold the branches). That’s how he got his name. After he told me this I giggled but he is determined and could be one of the few that finishes. They say only 25% of those who start actually finish the trail.

I am in my bag writing this because it gets chilly fast. We haven’t had cell service in a couple days so some postings will be delayed as well as the pictures. I believe all but 25% are now in their bags ready for bed and Chatty Cathy is outside fixing his late dinner driving the guy beside me nuts because half of what he’s saying is true. Maybe he will quiet down soon and we can fall asleep. So Good night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 24- Today started out pretty good; I got to take my time this morning getting all my stuff ready before heading to the NOC to catch a free shuttle the First Baptist Church provides for thru hikers. When we got to the trailhead there was breakfast trail magic provided by the same church. That is always a welcome sight. I realized I had lost my fleece hat, darn it. It cost a whole dollar at the Walmart! I was using it for padding on one of my straps that starts to dig into my bony shoulder blade after awhile. Oh well, I can use my gloves.

I am officially in Tennessee but I will criss cross again into NC and back again. The wind had already started whipping up and it was cold, but I knew once I started hiking it would get warm, and it did. I also got a Charlie horse in one of my calves after I started so I tried to stretch it out as I went and rub it but it still hurt going uphill. I was hoping I didn’t pull a muscle so I didn’t want to push it too hard, but it was just a cramp. It was a little slow going today because of that and on account there were many uphills. The wind was blowing about 35 knots gusting to 45 constantly and it tried to blow me down on several of the ridges. I just dug my poles in harder. There were a lot of people out today hiking up to Charlie’s Bunion and back and many of them liked my Clemson hat, or just said Go Tigers as they passed by. When I got to Charlie’s Bunion Trail the wind was whipping up so bad that I decided not to take the side trail.

It was bittersweet because it was there so many years ago that I decided I would hike the whole trail one day. Boy was I naive! You have to do some boulder climbing and the trail is very narrow and hugs the edge of the mountain, so I decided that with the wind and my newly heavy pack that it would be best to see it another day. I did stop at the first shelter, eat lunch, use the privy, and take my pack off for a minute. That was a nice rest. I was making okay time to the next shelter which I knew would take me several hours. There was more boulder maneuvering and tricky root stepping so that slowed me a bit. On down the trail on a very thin area along the edge I stepped on a rock that gave a bit which bumped me into a tree, which caused me to stumble on a stob sticking up which threw me to the ground on my knee; the pack took the brunt of it thank goodness. One of my poles was hanging over the edge so I got it back on the trail and wrestled my hand out of the strap so I could use my hands to push myself back up, I was laying on the other pole so I really had a time getting my hand free from that one.

After that fiasco I pulled and pushed on that tree to see if I could stand, I could not, so at that point I unlatched my pack, leaned against it, and sat there for a moment in total frustration. (I believe I am missing family). Finally I reached around and grabbed a Moon Pie and sat there assessing my wounds while eating it. My knee was bleeding pretty good all over my clean pants so I got my first aid kit, thank you Leslie, and covered the bleeding wound. Needless to say my Charlie horse disappeared.

I finally made it to the shelter with enough time to lay out my bag and realized somewhere along the way I have lost my tarp. More frustration! It’s supposed to rain the next couple of days so I hope there will be room in the shelters until I can get another. I ate a quick dinner, hung my food bag, cleaned up my knee and redressed it (still bleeding). It is way past hiker bedtime so I will close for now and pray that tomorrow will be a better day. Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

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