Day 23 (5.5 miles)

Day 23- I forgot to tell you but the climb down from Clingman’s Dome yesterday was through a river bed and the trail is very poorly marked so at times I question as to whether or not I missed a slight turn. Backtracking is not something I would like to do, but there were times when I figured I would just end up at a river and then have to get un-lost. Ultimately a white blaze will appear like a beacon in the night and restore my faith of being on the right path!

So this morning was a fairly easy hike which made things go faster for me. I make it to the TN/NC border there at Newfound Gap and Ed was waiting there with Trail Magic. Those doughnuts tasted so delicious! Saucy and I had decided to share a room and she and others from the night before were waiting. He was going to take us to town but we got a ride from a lady who runs a hostel from her home. When I came out of the woods there were 4 or 5 buses there loaded with seniors and they were mingling everywhere. One guy who really didn’t look much older than me stared at me and finally asked about what I was doing. After telling him I went off to look for the others. I spied them at Ed’s truck and made my way over but in the meantime I ran into the same guy again. He brought others, spoke, and took pictures of me like he had seen a wild bear or something. I think these seniors need to get out more often and not on a tour bus!

Ed and some Trail Magic! Thanks Ed!!

So we get into Gatlinburg, a small touristy town. I would choose a different place to stay for a vacation if it were me but that’s just me. Our first stop was the NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center. They offer free showers to thru hikers and it felt great! There was a can of Lysol there so I gave the insides of my boots a good once over since they had been wet for a couple days and didn’t want them to start getting funky. The people at NOC were fantastic and so helpful. Then we left to devour some food. It’s amazing how hungry hiking makes you.

We made our way to the Motel 6 and the more we walked off the Main Street the more it began looking like a carney village. It obviously is where the seasonal workers stay and a bit sketchy, I must say. People cautiously watching you, most missing many of their teeth. Anyway we got our nasty clothes together and the motel guy said there were coin washers next door, so off we went. Well apparently yesterday some guy thought it was a good idea to strip naked in front of kids and do his laundry there so the motel manager said no one could use the machines unless they were staying there. Our motel guy was nice enough to give us our money back and we continued uphill to where everything was and got another room near a trolley that took us to the outskirts of town to the one and only laundromat.

We saw Slip and Slide there, she has decided to leave the trail. We finally resupplied our food and yes it is true, do not go shopping when you are hungry. If I can pick my pack up now I should be good on food for awhile. I wasn’t sure it would all fit! We stopped for a sweet potato and salad for supper, packed up our packs and went to bed. It is way later than we normally go to bed but it is clean, temperature controlled and not on the ground! So for tonight, Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 22 (7.9 miles)

Day 22- This is the day I got to the top of Clingman’s Dome. I have officially gone over 200 miles! I thought it was going to be a very hard straight up walk but it was actually one of my nicer uphill climbs. When I left Double Spring Gap Shelter, it was lightly raining and I had to put on my damp pants over my leggings, which I pulled back out last night to sleep in (also wrapped in my Pike Trail tarp for added warmth, thanks Ben). On top was my rain gear and I thought I would be too hot going uphill but it was just right. I entered another enchanted forest of another kind this time for the entire trek up the mountain. It was dark, misty, and low growing coverage that seemed to swallow you up. Again, I was in no hurry to get through. Anything laying on the forest floor was covered in a thick green moss, contrasting against the the brown, muddy trail and the green of the sweet smelling balsam trees. The memories of Christmas followed me throughout the day. When I got to the top the sun peeked through for a moment and beams of sunshine poured through the thick foliage. A sight to behold! The balsam trees are here due to the elevation and I will see them again in Vermont.

Saucy caught up with me before the next shelter and we decided to go into Gatlinburg tomorrow, shower, wash clothes, resupply, and eat a lot. That will be a good day. I met three new guys today at the shelter, Roy, Brian, and Troy. They are buddies from Augusta, GA. A very interesting group out for a section hike. I really enjoyed our conversations. Brian is originally from Walhalla and when I called it Hogwaller he knew I was legit. Troy had stents put in a couple weeks ago and is doing great to be out here! He showed me his 38 ultralight, now I want one, very light. Two old geezers showed up, one out of breath, one with a busted knee. I don’t know how he walks on it. The shelter is starting to fill so I am going to eat the last of my supper, hang my bear bag and climb into my sleeping bag to stay warm watching the interesting people. Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 21 (8.6 miles)

Day 21- There were several hikers up and at ‘em before daylight to get to Clingman’s Dome and the the shelter beyond it. That is way more ambitious than my plans, thank you very much. As I said yesterday that is the highest point on the AT at 6658 foot elevation. So although I stopped short at this shelter earlier in the day, I feel I will need the rest for tomorrow. It was a little harder hike today with the constant rain and very mucky trail. When you get to the top of the ridges the wind was blowing so hard it about knocked me off my feet. I was glad to stop at this shelter for the night.

There are many hikers that I have run across before here at the shelter. They are so muddy and wet from their walk. There is Turnip, who like me needs to resupply quickly, she is from Atlanta. I am getting more ideas on what foods to buy for calories. There are also two red headed brothers here, Wrong Way and Mark. And yes he did go the wrong way once, thus his name. They have been hopscotching me for a couple of days. The better water source here according to the guide is in NC so I chose that one. The one down the other embankment in Tennessee was not very free flowing. Like I said we have been flip flopping the Tenn/NC border. We actually have a privy too! It sure beats digging a cat hole in the rain! The rain had pushed out several earthworms along the way and they are so long! You could fish for hours using these earthworms.

Earthworm!!

Right now we have a break in the rain and the sun is shining…for now. It is supposed to rain again tomorrow, maybe it will be on and off. Well a lady came by that is leaving the trail and asked if we wanted any leftover food. Boy was I excited! More Trail Magic! I have a tortilla soup now for supper, can’t wait! Oh the little things in life! We have a fire place in the shelter and I am hoping someone will light it off later. It would feel good to cut the chill. Well, the sound of the pitter-patter of the rain drops hitting on the tin roof tells me it’s time to slumber. Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 20 (10.9 miles)

Day 20- I was up and at ‘em again this morning and was sure to eat my oatmeal (for some energy hopefully) before I left. I made good time my first three miles and actually saw 2 deer. The last 6 plus miles were grueling, with lots of boulder climbing and tree jumping, and lots of mud which made walking slower and more precise (so I don’t slip). It continued to rain through the mid morning and when I got to Round Bald, what a sight!

When I got to the shelter I was starving so I made a quick peanut butter tortilla roll up and later made supper. I was glad to see the same people from the night before. Tadpole, from Nashville, was here and Roy from Savannah. No Eyes made it here too, he is a nice kid. The sun started shining and felt good.  Around 5:00 pm or so we had thunderstorms, sun, rain, and now more rain. The air is pretty cool so I am in my bag to keep warm and try to stay dry and not muddy. People keep showing up and the shelter is full, a couple of them are from Fontana and like to party but there is a ridge runner here and he’ll take care of that. A ridge runner works with the Forestry service for a certain length of trail to make sure things are okay and you are doing what you should be doing.

I should make it to Newfound Gap in a couple of days. It will be the hardest day with a climb up to Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT. I hope to get to Gatlinburg to resupply, wash clothes, and eat. Tomorrow should be the last day for rain. Not much happened today except for awesome views. I will try to get enough service to send the pictures, if not then I will later. I am going to snuggle into my bag and try to get some shut eye. Good night and sweet dreams!

Shelter life in the Smokies

Day 19 (16.8 miles)

Day 19- I got up and out of Fontana early which is new for me. I think most people stayed around for another day (zero day). The AT goes right over the Fontana Dam then up the hill to enter the Smokies. You have to register to thru hike and you have 8 days to be through. I will be crisscrossing the Tennessee and North Carolina borders through it all.

I wound up at the Russell Field Shelter which is further than I expected to go but I just got a bad vibe from the people at the previous shelter. It’s not that they were dangerous, just not friendly. The AT guy was there doing repairs and he was super nice, he said this shelter was an “easy” 3 miles. Now we are still talking mountain miles here and I would really like to ask what is their definition of easy. When my shadow starts getting long and my belly starts to rumble I know it’s time to put down for the night. I did get here in good time, I think my adrenaline kicks in because for once I was actually Flying Tiger.

The people here are great. Another lady I had met once we entered the Smokies was here, her name is Tadpole. She’s a little older too but quick. Another kid, Brandon, works for Gulfstream and is going home tomorrow. I met a few here from around Detroit who were very nice, they are through hiking.

So earlier today I was coming around a switchback and stopped dead in my tracks. The forest floor as far as your eyes could see were covered in small white flowers. It was like being in a fairy tale. The sun was beaming down through the leaveless trees and made everything so bright. I found my gait slowed down and once in awhile a sweet aroma would fill the air. I felt as though I was in a Disney movie as I have never seen anything this beautiful. I came upon a tree with a hole through it and imagined this is where the seven dwarfs would be coming home to soon. It’s as if God was saying, slow down, take a look around, appreciate what you have. It was really quite emotional, I must say. This went on for about a mile and I was mesmerized.

Just around a corner just as it began, it abruptly ended. That is something I will never forget. It was definitely God’s handiwork! It is supposed to rain the next two days, let’s hope it goes good! I hear a screech owl now, which is cool, and a hoot owl. Everyone is in their bags so Good Night Sweet Prince and Princess and Sweet Dreams!

Day 18 (9.3 miles)

Day 18- Last night it rained off and on, but really wasn’t too cold. I had to set up on sort of a slant so I kept sliding to the foot of the tent. I actually got up and at ‘em before 8:30 which is good for me and I didn’t really have that far to go to Fontana. I awaken normally at around 6:30, so I don’t know why it takes so long. I do have to keep telling myself when the same people pass me that this is MY hike and my pace and I relax a lot more. There was downhill trekking today and after the rain it was quite hairy sometimes. Yes, I slid to my knees once in the mud landing on the hill instead of the cliff edge! Face planted and everything you could think of that would be embarrassing. But I was able to push myself upright and was thankful it wasn’t on the boulders. I wasn’t the only one to do that apparently, I found out later.

In the clouds

The rain had stopped mid morning and my head was literally in the clouds as the sun tried to break through and by the time I made it to Fontana the sun was shining, so I got my tent set up to dry and got a ride to the village and pigged out on a 1/2lb burger and fries. I had run into Willow
and Silver Lining early in the morning and then later while eating. We had a nice chat. I went to the general store and picked up some trail hiking snack food to keep me energized and a couple suppers to hopefully take me through the Smokies. If not, there will be an unexpected ride to Gatlinburg to get more food, but right now it looks good. Oh yes, the first thing I saw at the store were Moon Pies and picked me up one for breakfast, a double decker (Moon Pie did show up at camp later in the evening, so I had to tell her of my find).

The last mile to the shelter took me through the most wonderful smelling forest yet. With the wetness, the smell of pine and hemlock were intoxicating! There were so many small flowering plants that covered the forest ground that it mesmerized you. (Not too good when roots are on the path). Trip… There were more song birds that I have heard in awhile also, but still not a lot.

It’s kinda nice to have an occasional afternoon off to relax, get some food and talk with your new friends. Salsy is tenting next to me; she got her name because she carries a container of hot sauce with her on the trail (Robbie). I did get a small blister on the side of my heel due to my sock not sitting exactly right, but I have taken care of it (thanks, Ben, for the moleskin). Oh, one other thing, they call this shelter the Fontana Hilton because the shelter is built so spacious with several picnic tables, camping pads, automatic flushing toilets and a warm showers! I am not sure what kind of cell service I will have in the Smokies so don’t forget about me! Good night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 17 (17.2 miles)

Day 17- Last night got a little chilly on my feet so instead of pulling things out, I remembered my gloves were still in my pocket so I put them on my feet. Problem solved. I did eat some oatmeal this morning. I am trying to eat my calories as I can really tell a difference when going uphill. This morning, I actually got to the top of Sassafras Mtn. (Yes, there is one here too). The view was worth each breathless step. Now onto Jacob’s Ladder. It is what it implies, up and then down, up and then down. This went on well after lunch. I was determined to get to the second shelter which was a lot of miles and I did it! I got the tent set up, heated water for my 4 cheese mashed potatoes, which were yummy, by the way, threw my bear bag (not in an ideal location), and refilled my water all before the rain came. I imagine it will be sometime tonight. I am sleeping on a slant so I will be in a ball at the foot of the tent tomorrow. That is one disadvantage of getting to a shelter later…all the good spots are taken.

I won’t have many miles to go in the rain tomorrow before I get to Fontana Dam. Hopefully I can get some more good, big meals, then it’s off to the Smokies! I feel good about the time it took to get this far, so no complaining here. Larry and I camped at the foot of the dam once and all I could think about was wonder how long it would take to cover us with water if the dam broke. It is a site to behold! I talked to Salsy today, we had just passed each other the day before. She is a red head from Biloxi, MS, originally from Kentucky. She took my picture at the top of the mountain. One thing about her is she will take a break when it gets to be so much and relax.

Today was another beautiful day for that. So beautiful in fact that when another girl passed me she suddenly stops and excitedly says, “Did you see that snake”? I winced and uttered, “Is it coming at me”? She said no and then I had to look, yuck, I could have done without that. It was a youngster so it meant there were more. So now I really had to watch out for them since it was so warm. At lunch break with several others from the night before, this guy comes up and says, “that’s the ugliest hat I have ever seen (I had my Clemson cap on). There was a guy at the Pancake breakfast with the same gosh awful hat”. I just said that guy must have been awesome. He must have been an Bama fan still muttering about my hat as he left.

Moon pie showed up too, she is the rugby player from Clemson. Every time I say her name I want a moon pie! Well I know Pine Needle made it almost this far because a guy passed me saying some guy about a mile back didn’t have on shoes. He thought he was crazy. I hope he can stay warm and dry tonight wherever he is. It is starting to rain and the wind has picked up. I am not sure what I will do when I get to Fontana Dam tomorrow. Probably after a night in the shelter I will start on the Great Smoky Mountains. You have to be through there in 8 days or they will fine you. It’s getting pretty late for hiker time so Good night and Sweet Dreams!

A Hosta pushing through the forest floor. Made me think of my brother-in-law Larry Mac.
http://mountainmist-nursery.com/about-us.html

Day 16 (8 miles)

Day 16 – I thought it would be a full hostel bunk bed kinda night since they said it was full, but little did they know there were only 3 girls in this bunk house. Lying beside the thunderous Nantahala River and no snoring gave the best sleep I think I have had in a while! I grabbed some food in the grocery store there this morning and shared a table with Tiger Lily from Ohio. She has four kids and has always wanted to hike the AT. We wound up hopscotching each other the rest of the day until getting to the shelter. Today has pretty much been an uphill challenge. Challenge because there were obstacles in the path’s way like large trees, crazy rock formations and uphill because it was ALL uphill. The first big tree I came to I figured it would be easier to go over it than climb up a slick bank and back down. So I hiked my leg as high as I could and threw it over and found myself laying face down, straddling, and hugging this huge tree. I am so glad no one came around the bend! I slowly slid down the other side, picked up my poles and went my merry way like it was all planned that way. All in all a beautiful warm day and getting to be a very chilly night.

Not far from the beginning of the hike I had stopped by a creek to fill my water bottle and this voice comes from behind and asks,” Are you Flying Tiger”? I turn around to see who has caught up with me, answer yes, and realize I haven’t met her before. She is friends and went to high school with my niece Shawn from Maine. In this huge world, who would think you could run into a stranger in the woods that knows you and a family member all from a Clemson ball cap hanging from your pack. My name precedes me, uh-oh! A wonderful surprise. They were Willow and Silver Lining living in Dallas but thinking of moving back to Maine when they get to Mt Katahdin. We had a nice chat and I hope to run into them again!

I finally arrived at the shelter ready to rest my tired legs, eat some good freeze dried spaghetti with an expiration date of 2048 for some calories (it wasn’t that bad either). While eating I got to talking to a UCF grad who wants to continue on to nursing school or a PA degree. His granddad graduated from Clemson and they had found some really nice Clemson relics in his things after he passed away recently. We talked on about a lot of things. I finished, cleaned up and hung my first bear bag. It went without a hitch I must say. It’s probably not high enough but most trees here go straight up without side branches. I ran into Tiger Lily who was about to use the privy for the first time and she kept searching the trees for a big one that she would rather hide behind for her business. I thought it was comical. The people here were new and awesome.

I sat at the amazing fire and a barefoot kid sat down to cook his food on the fire and lo and behold it was Pine Needle. He got his name because he drinks pine needle tea, sometimes with hemlock. He is a vegetarian from California who hitches to Wilmington, NC, to visit his dad every 6 months or so. He is very knowledgeable about the edible plants, mostly in CA though. There is also a mom, two daughters and two sons here. The Mom and 13 year old will be leaving at weeks end (spring break), and the others will continue on. That would be a neat experience! Moon Pie, from FL was also here and she too is a Clemson grad. She played rugby while at school. I got a lot of Clemson recognition today, mostly them yelling out “Go Tigers”. Although the hills, 4710 elevation, were tough at times, it’s been a good day! I hope yours has too! Good night and Sweet dreams!

Willow and Me. What small world?!

Day 15 (13.8 miles)

Day 15- So it was really cold last night and I think if I had gotten in bed earlier while still warm it wouldn’t have been as bad. So I put on my fleece leggings, a pair of socks and pulled the leggings down over them on account they are too long. Still cold. I got out my Pike Trail tarp (thank you Ben) and laid it in the sleeping bag, slid my feet in the corners, wrapped it around me and that did the trick. I awoke to a light dusting of snow on my tent. As I packed things up, it did start snowing lightly until mid morning. The guys in the shelter were not Clammy and crew but another one I run into now and again. The headlamp I had seen while I was coming in belonged to a guy who lost his precious TP! When he saw mine they got freaked out, headlamp not TP.

I had a couple of tall mountains to climb but after lunch it was 4.5 hours pure downhill! Let me tell you it’s tough too, you just don’t get winded. I met a group of girls with chaperones from Houston. They were very polite. If you don’t know, I have been in the Nantahala Mountains while in NC. A couple hours later, an older man had slid about a fourth of the way down the mountain after loosing his footing on a slippery slanted trail. The girls were there and fashioned up a pulley of sorts and pulled while he clawed his way up the slope. Fortunately, he wasn’t hurt. When I finally passed, the wife said, “oh, it’s nice to know I am not the only elderly lady here”. Hmm, I just smiled. When I finally reached the bottom, in good time I might add, I found myself at the Nantahala Outdoor Center.

Begrudgingly I, well my feet, decided to stay at the hostel here, no frills. I stopped first for a hamburger and fries and lots of water. I sat next to the Nantahala River, very pretty. Reminds me of when my sister-in-law, Ellen, Larry and I went rafting. First off they put helmets on you that make you look like you a few brain cells short. When we hit a rapid, Ellen, who had been sitting next to Larry up front, became airborne and if she hadn’t had her feet wedged under his rear end, she would still be bobbing along! I was in the back of the raft, saw it all, and laughed so hard! Can’t take her anywhere! I think I am ready to hoof it up the hill to my bunk so Good Night and Sweet Dreams!

Day 14 (17.1 miles)

Day 14 -The day was beautiful! Franklin had a metro bus, big van, that would shuttle you to the trailhead. When I got on there were Clammy and the rest of the Ninjas. I had planned on just hiking to the second shelter at Wayah Bald but it was too crowded with the most unfriendly group of people (we have run into them before). So I chose to move on to the 3rd shelter where probably Clammy and them were. Still not sure because they were in their bags already. It’s either them or the younger group with Shaggy from Clemson. Fortunately I didn’t have to walk too far in the dark. The sun tried to hang in there but finally gave up when I saw a light ahead.. the shelter!! I was so happy and set up the tent in the dark with my headlamp. I did a poor job hanging my bear bag so we will see if I have food tomorrow.

Siler Bald

Earlier at Siler Bald, I popped out onto a clearing that went way up a hill with beautiful views I am sure. I chose to admire the bald while I ate my lunch. Pine Needle showed up and he was wearing shoes, but took them off to climb the hill. He said he got real cold last night. It’s pretty freezing right now but I will finish this first. I am snuggled up in my bag. On the biggest hill which is around 4900 foot elevation, I sang 100 bottles of beer on the wall and still had to sing other stuff to get to the top! Normally when you get to the top you will start descending before you get to a shelter. I believe God stuck this one literally on the trail! Thank you!

I have seen some amazing birch trees. Each time I pass one I tell them how beautiful their roots are. Their silver skin shines like magic in the sun. It’s almost like a fairy tale. Now that I got this far today I should be able to make it to Fontana Dam on schedule. It’s supposed to rain then, so I would really like to get there. There is a really cool rock tower at Wayah Bald. They had a picture labeling the mountains and right there was Greenville, SC! At least now it looks so far away. I am starting to shiver so I will snuggle in this bag and see if it can do it’s job! Good Night and Sweet Dreams!